Archive for the 'Vintage Alumacraft boat' Category

01
Sep
10

The “New Deal”: An Alumacraft “FDR” restoration part four: Just in time…

Work stalled on the Aluma Craft “FDR” for a good part of the summer months.  She was used as a test bed for motors that were repaired or restored.  But a vision came by looking through the windshield I acquired at an AMOC Swap Meet in Constantine, Michigan.

I was wandering around the swap meet, hoping to find a windshield, but with little hope of finding one the correct with.  This Aluma Craft was to have a typical late 1950’s Taylor-Made plexiglas windshield.  Taylor-Made has stopped production on these vintage windshields…and they were expensive anyway.

After walking around the for a bit, I saw a windshield in good shape sitting next to a trailer.  It was too wide, but generally could be bent slightly to reduce the width and should fit the boat.  I asked the price and was shocked the vendor only wanted 20 bucks for it.  Whata deal!

With the Taylor-Made windshield, the boat no longer looked like a fishing boat.

 Other hardware came by way of a derelict old Shell Lake fiberglass boat that I scrapped out due to the hull being cracked. 

Now with a new view through the windshield, I had a vision for finishing the boat before the Toledo Antique Boat Show on August 27th, 2010.  So the work commenced in earnest.

My neighbor contributed a bundle of teak strips from her father who had passed away.  Upon getting this little gift, I decided wood slat floors would look nice, and it would be easier to walk on.

After cutting to length, the teak floors were screwed and epoxied together, then routed with a round-over bit on all edges. Sanding and varnishing followed.

Seats were next!  My local fine wood dealer was kind enough to glue up some choice mahogany planks for me.  I then used a wood strip to create and trace an arc on the wood that would compliment the lines of the boat.  Then cut out the middle of the front seat to replicate the original design of the seats.  Then as always…more sanding and eight coats of varnish.

The depth of the mahogany is really brought out by the varnish.

While each coat of varnish was drying, I had time to sand, buff, and polish the hull.  YES…SAND!  Starting with 220 grit and working my way down to 1500 grit, the sides of the hull were sanded to get rid of the “dock rash” from years of use.  Also those pesky little aluminum warts at the end of scratches were sanded away.

The tools for the job are a variable speed angle grinder/buffer, 3M heavy-duty buffing compound, 3M polishing compound, and coarse and fine wool bonnets, foam bonnets, and microfiber cloths.

The power plants for this vessel will be twin 1954 Johnson QD-14 10hp outboard.

These two outboards will provide the power to drive the "FDR".

The seats were installed following varnishing and wiring the boat.

A view from the rear.

The teak floors were installed in the cockpit. Also note at the bottom of the photo the dual Johnson Shipmaster Throttle to control the twin outboards.

In honor of my lover of jazz, and my working on the railroad as a bridge tender, a name came to me while working on buffing her out.  I wanted a musical name, but then the idea of reflecting my job just seemed natural.

The Aluma Craft "FDR was christened "Swing Bridge"...combining two musical terms, and the type of railroad bridge I work on was a natural.

At 4pm on Friday August 27th, 2010 the “Swing Bridge was finished just in time for the Toledo Antique Boat Show.  I pressed my 1957 Johnson Javelin into service due to not having time to test the 10hp Johnson’s beforehand.

She was unveiled for public view on Saturday August 28th, 2010 at the Toledo Municipal Marina.

Basking in the sun, the "Swing Bridge" sits at the Toledo Antique Boat Show.

Aside from having some chrome hardware refinished on the 1957 Johnson Javelin and the deck hardware, the “Swing Bridge” is a fast and fun running boat.  She rides well and doesn’t leak…and attracts looks as she travels up and down the river.

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14
Nov
09

The “New Deal”: An Alumacraft “FDR” restoration part three: Polishing aluminum…

When we parted company last we were working to prepare our little vessel for a good buffing.  To make a nice finish, some small items must be dealt with.  Aluminum “warts”.

Alumacraft FDR 11-10-09-003

This is a "wart". See the little aluminum nodule at the end of the scrape? This needs to be removed.

A “wart” is formed by scraping the aluminum hull hard enough that the soft metal is dragged and reformed into a lump at the end of a scrape.  The problem is they are very unsightly, they tend to collect polishing compound and snag your wool polishing bonnets.  To get rid of these you can wet sand the area with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper.  I wanted this boat to look nice so I actually sanded the entire bottom of the hull.

Okay, some might think this is extreme…as do I.  However, this will make the hull very smooth (albeit not perfect) and allow us to actually save some time when buffing since all the little bumps or “warts” will be done away with on the front side of the buffing work.

Alumacraft FDR 11-10-09-001

The tools for prepping the hull. An orbital sander, a pad sander, a 7" angle grinder, fine and coarse wool bonnets, and a Cyclo orbital buffer.

To begin with the hull will be sanded with 240 grit sanding discs on the orbital sander.  Don’t obsess about the rivet heads too much as they will buff out.  However…don’t linger on the rivets too long either.  Sand the hull working in manageable areas.  For instance I work from one vertical rivet line to the next, finish sanding and buffing, then move on.

Alumacraft FDR 11-10-09-005

After sanding with the orbital sander and 240 grit sanding disc, the aluminum should be fairly dull and you should be able to get rid of the "warts" and other imperfections. Some folks will feather and buff out every scratch. I'm too lazy for that!

Next, using the pad sander loaded with 600 grit wet dry sand paper, sand the same area again to finish getting rid of scratches and “warts”, as well as softening the effects of the previous sanding work.

Alumacraft FDR 11-10-09-007

After re-sanding using 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and the pad sander, the aluminum is already showing a shine.

Alumacraft FDR 11-10-09-008

Here is a comparison of the cleaned aluminum (right) and the sanded aluminum (left).

After all this sanding, you may want to move to 1000 grit or even work your way toward 1500 or 2000 grit paper.  I am not going to obsess about the bottom of the hull too much.  The sides are where the money is for me.

Now lets move on to the buffing.  To begin you’ll need an angle grinder/buffer of some type.  The one I used is a relatively cheap 7 inch size.  It is a variable speed so that as we work with different compounds we can adjust the speed as needed.  We also need a coarse wool bonnet.  In fact several are a good idea since they can get loaded up with compound.  The good news is you can wash them out and reuse them.

Alumacraft FDR 11-10-09-002

For both the Feather Craft and the Alumacraft, 3M Heavy Duty Buffing Compound was used. It is fairly abrasive, but gets out a lot of little nicks and scrapes. It also prepares the aluminum for finer polishing compounds for the mirror finish.

A little dab will do you!  Keep this old axiom in mind.  DO NOT use too much compound as it will load up in the wool bonnet and eventually the wool will become ineffective at buffing….PERIOD.  Use a little bit at a time.  Spread it out with the pad, then turn on the buffer at the lowest possible RPM’s and work in a small area of about 12 to 16 inches by 6 inches high.

The work is slow, but good results will follow!

Alumacraft FDR 11-10-09-009

Now we're gettin' somewhere! The old shine is coming through. On the left is the area we just buffed as described, and the right is what we sanded earlier.

Alumacraft FDR 11-10-09-010

After buffing about half the length of the port side, I still found areas of scratches that were objectionable. No problem. Just sand them again, and buff as we have been. You can see in the middle and right part of the photo the area that was re-sanded.

Alumacraft FDR 11-14-09-003

After more buffing, we are left with a nice shiny, smooth surface.

Alumacraft FDR 11-14-09-001

A shot of the bow.

Alumacraft FDR 11-14-09-004

The side shot above shows the progress from the aluminum brightener (bottom of hull in the photo) to the buffed area. (Top of hull in the photo)

Alumacraft FDR 11-14-09-002

And finally a stern shot. Yes we have swirls from the coarse wool bonnet, but those can be buffed with a fine bonnet or the Cyclo orbital buffer and micro-fiber cloth. You can also get rid of a lot of those swirls by hand buffing.

Hopefully before winter gets a real hold on NW Ohio, I will be able to finish the other half of the hull.  Then in the spring time, we’ll revisit the project and work on the topsides and deck.  Then we can begin to work on adding hardware, seat, repairing the old cracked steering wheel, and getting this boat ready for boating season.

10
Nov
09

The “New Deal”: An Alumacraft “FDR” restoration part two: Polishing aluminum…

For whatever reason I have gotten many…many calls about my Feather Craft Vagabond that we sold last month.  Every single call was somehow related to how to polish the aluminum for a mirror finish.  While not any kind of expert, the work is time-consuming and slow-moving.  The work on the Vagabond was good, but had its issues owing to the vessels rough life.

All that being said, I will attempt to help others by showing in a step-by-step fashion how to polish an aluminum boat, or whatever.

Choice one would obviously be to have someone else do it.  However, being a cheapskate…this work will again be done by yours truly on this 1959 Alumacraft FDR.  I acknowledge that neither the Feather Craft or Alumacraft boats came polished, but rather in natural aluminum.  If upon completion you desire the original look of natural “satin” aluminum, you can always acid wash the boat to give it the original luster.

Let’s get started with this edition being a comparison of before and after photos with explanation.

 
Alumacraft FDR 10-18-09-001

The vessel as it was when it arrived in its new home port. 50 years of dirt has accumulated on its hull. But the worst was yet to come when it was rolled over.

Alumacraft FDR 11-09-09-003

Using a one gallon garden sprayer full of aluminum brightener, the hull was sprayed and brushed gently, then thoroughly washed with water from a garden hose.

Let’s talk about the topic of aluminum brighteners.  I buy mine in a one gallon jug from a local vendor who sells products to car washes.  The same type of product is made under trade names such as Toon Bright, available at local marine stores.  There are others that are available from auto parts outlets.

Aluminum brightners contain phosphoric acid and other goodies…so a respirator is a must!  These brighteners should be “cut” as they are a concentrate.  The instruction on the bottle should be adheared to as well.  I “cut” my formula 3 parts water to 1 part brightener.  It can be mixed stronger as needed.

The process starts at the BOTTOM of the vessel and works its way UP to the top of the vessel.  So if your ship is upside-down on saw horses, as mine was, you will need to start at the gunwales and work your way up the hull to the keel.  Why is this? 

You must first remove all the dirt at the bottom to prevent streaking.  In other words, if you start at the keel, the aluminum brightener will run down the sides of the hull while still actively cleaning and leave streaks that can be very difficult to remove after the fact.

Starting at the gunwales spray with the garden sprayer along the length of the vessel working in two foot lengths, then using a medium or soft bristle scrub brush, gently work  along the section “massaging” the aluminum brightner.  Don’t scrub!  Let the aluminum brightner do the work.   You may need to make several passes at the area or the entire hull to make sure it is good and clean before moving on.

After you have cleaned the area with aluminum brightner, be sure to rinse thoroughly with water to stop the acidic action.  This is a must.  Then move on to the next section and repeat the process along the gunwales.  After the entire length of the hull has been cleaned, move up to the area above and repeat the process until the whole hull has been done.

Alumacraft FDR 11-09-09-004

The Alumacraft FDR has been completely cleaned with aluminum brightner on the sides. The worst is yet to come!

The aluminum will initially turn a light shade of white or grey following application of the aluminum brightener, but upon washing with water should return to aluminum.  Of course it will be dull or satin at this point.

Now we’ll move onto the bottom…which was a shocker!

When the boat was rolled over onto the saw horses, I was horrified to find the bottom coated in dirt and filth.  The boat must have been left in the water over the years, as it was covered with very thick growth.

Alumacraft FDR 11-09-09-001

A half-n-half view of the bottom of the hull. The left side shows the dirt that existed over the entire bottom of the hull. Also if you look at the far left, you can see the streaking caused by the aluminum brightener that was washed over the keel when rinsing the right half. Those same streaks are the reason we began cleaning at the gunwales, or the bottom of the hull. This eliminates the streaks running down the entire side of the hull.

Alumacraft FDR 11-09-09-002

After applying the aluminum brightener over the entire hull, the boat looks like new.

The inside was washed before the outside.  The reason is simply that there is aluminum brightner overspray that could louse up the work on the outside leaving white spots everywhere.  The inside also cleaned up very nicely.

You may need to repeat the steps above multiple times to be sure the hull is devoid of all dirt and grime.

At this point you will want to inspect your hull very closely.  You’ll be surprised at the number of dents and dings that you’ll find now that she is clean.  Things you never noticed will now stand out.  We’ll correct these issues in the next step as we prepare to use compounding polish to begin the buffing process.

05
Nov
09

The Autumn Leaves: Boating off the water…

As the old song says…”The Autumn Leaves….drift by my window…”.  Not only have they drifted, but they have landed and are at the curb waiting for pickup.

In the meantime, I’ve been spending more time practicing my trombone in the evening, and more time in the workshop working on all things boat related.  I have even made a list as to what I need to achieve before next boating season.  IE; Fix and restore 1958 Johnson CD-15 5hp, 1957 Evinrude 35hp, 1950 Johnson QD-11 (Under Way), 1950 TD-20 (completed), 1948 Gambles Hiawatha 5hp, and a 195? Firestone 3.6hp.  Also on the agenda is stripping the inside of the 1949 Thompson and getting new varnish inside her passenger area.  After all this is done, work can begin on the 1959 Alumacraft.

As mentioned, I have finished a nice little 1950 TD-20 Johnson 5hp outboard.  It came to me in a strange way.  A fellow walks in a local marine dealer…no this is not a joke, as there is no priest or rabbi involved…and wanted to trade this poor old thing in for a new motor.  He’d had the recoil replaced, and the thing would run for a while…then die.

Well the owner of the marina has done some of my motor block work and knows I like old motors.  He didn’t want the thing and gave this fellow my number.  The guy calls me up and asks me to come look at it.

Well I go to this fellows house…and not only is the motor beat up…it’s seized up.  I chuckled when he told me he just put 40 bucks in the motor for a new recoil.  Clearly this guy was frustrated…really just plain ticked.

“How much will you give me for it?!?!” the guy asked.

“Well…it might sell for 30 bucks at a swap meet in this condition.”

He says “Give me 40 bucks for it so I can recoup what I just put in the recoil, and I’ll let you have.”

Okay…I knew this was a tad high, but the guy seemed nice enough, and I had fallen in love with a TN-27 at Pokagon State Park Lodge.  The motor at least had the possibility of running again at best case, and being a nice non-running relic at worst case.  So I shelled out the 40 clams.  The guy was happy.  I wasn’t sure where I stood on the matter.

So home to tear into this thing.  As usual a consultation on the AMOCI forum was the first step.  A fellow there named Lloyd alerted me to the fact that the primer for the carb has a tendency to leak fuel due to worn out leather washers in the primer pump.  He sold the washers with instructions…so I bought them when we met at the Constantine, MI AMOCI meet.

Well I had a helluva time getting the little brass tube that holds these washer in the primer of the carb out.  Penetrating oil, PB Blaster, WD-40…nothing budged this brass tube in the Tillotson carb primer pump.  Lloyd checked in and assured me it should come right out.  If not he would assist in finding another carburetor body for me.

Now I really am thinking…what fresh hell is this motor!

Finally one day a week or two later, while picking at the tube…with a little heat from a torch and some patience…headway came about….it moved and eventually was free from 50+ years of gum  and varnish.  New leather washers were installed and the carb reassembled.  In the meantime the flywheel was pulled and the ignition cleaned up and reworked.  When I popped the flywheel…miricles of miricles…the pistons also broke free and the motor turned.  Go figure.

I did a bit of work on the lower unit to seal it up with new seals and a fresh load of Lubriplate 105, since this is a non shift outboard.  FORWARD ONLY!  And you better be pointed away from the dock.

After re-assembly, I found the motor ran erratically.  A fuel issue it appeared.  Indeed the cork float was saturated.  The carb was removed again, and the float dipped in Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer left over from the Thompson.  This penetrates into the cork and seals it better than varnish or airplane hot dope.

Reassembled the carb and the motor tuned fine now…except for a few leaks in the fuel tank.

It seems that when the tank was sandblasted by a local shop, they used “a LITTLE too much pressure” and apparently the medium of choice was railroad ballast/stone.  I patched the holes with JB Weld.  then set about filling the dents.

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The dents in the tank were filled with light weight body filler.

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The entire tank needed body work.

Next came sanding.  LOTS of sanding.  Sanding with a pad sander, then an orbital sander, then by hand.  And just when you think its perfect…sand some more!

DSC00799

Now the tank was ready for a coat of self-etching primer.

After trying some expensive self etching primer from the local paint supply house, I found it did not work well at all.  However, for 9.00 at NAPA, I found Duplicolor Self Etching primer.  This stuff seems to really work.  But we’ll see how it holds up in the water.

Paint was ordered from NY Marine at http://www.nymarine.ca/.  Peter sells paint that is a dead match for all the Johnson, Evinrude, and other popular outboards.  At first the 19.99 for a spray can was hard to swallow, but good things have been said about his paint…so I thought I’d give it a try.  It works very much like lacquer.  Very forgiving and very hard when dried completely.  The color is perfect too.  He also sells decals for this motor, so I ordered those as well.

The last issue with the motor is the recoil.  It has three tiny little springs that keep the pawls extended to grab the recoil when pulled.  Then when the motor is running, these pawls swing in due to centrifugal force.  The problem is…they were all missing.  An article was passed around the AMOCI Forum about making your own rather than buying them…so I did…using a guitar string, a screw with the head cut of and a notch cut down its middle.  The sting is wrapped around the screw…and presto!  Recoil spring!

StarterPawls2

The springs are wrapped around the little poles where the pawls pivot on top of the flywheel.

Next all old flaking paint was sanded or blasted off with a soda blaster.  Then primer and paint…and decals too.

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Our little 1950 TD-20 is finished and ready for service. She is pictured hanging here on my 1959 Alumacraft FDR.

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The Helmsman's controls left to right: Stop, Slow, Start, Fast. To go in reverse, turn the entire motor 360 degrees!

To protect the decals, a clear coat of automotive lacquer was applied.  Several coats later, she was shiny and new looking.

This may be a nice little motor for trolling along the Maumee River for a sunset cruise next spring.

Work is underway on the 1950 Johnson QD-11.  These are great little 10hp motors, and a blog with be forth coming on it soon.

18
Oct
09

The “New Deal”: An Alumacraft “FDR” restoration part one…

DSC00833

Alumacraft is a name with which I am familiar, but only in the sense that I see a lot of these boats around, both new and old.  They seem to have a good reputation, especially the older craft. 

Alumacraft is still in business, and is known for making modern and sleek boats…primarily for fishing.  Back in the 1950’s I suspect they felt some pressure to enter the market for motorboaters who wanted to pull a waterskier, and cruise the lake while on the yearly family summer vacation.  Thus, Alumacraft outfitted their standard fishing boat with a wheel deck and steering.  The aluminum bench seats were retained and upholstered seatback and cushions were added to make the little fishing boats look more sporty and comfortable.  A windshield was also an option.

DSC00848

The story of the boat ending up in my backyard is one of kindness.  It is as follows.

For those who follow this blog, or more for those who don’t, my wife’s job has been cut due to budgets being cut back at all level of her work.  We decided to put some money in our pockets by shedding things that were not necessary, and that meant one of our boats had to be looked at a surplus.

There was no way I was going to part with our 1949 Thompson Cedar Strip 14 footer.  I’d sell the house first.  This meant the 1955 Feather Craft Vagabond was going ot be put on the market.  I had only finished the restoration this year, but times are tough…so up for sale it went.

The Vagabond was posted on various websites for sale, including  www.feathercraft.net.  I was contacted by a buyer from Tennessee who offered me what I was asking, and was willing to come pick the boat up.  I was relieved he and his girlfriend seemed to be thrilled with the boat, and it would have a good home port, and Captain and Crew that loved it…perhaps more than I did.

Upon listing the boat as “SOLD” on the Feather Craft forum, I got a funny call from one of the members.  He introduced himself, and stated he saw I’d sold my “ship”.  He continued…“I’ve had some shitty and tough times in my life.  I know what you’re going through, and I wanted to help out.  I have a 1959 Alumacraft boat, with trailer! I want you to come pick it up.”

I explained, I couldn’t afford to buy anything right now…but the man cut me off to continue…

“You’re not going to pay for it.  I want to do something nice for you so you and your wife will have a boat for next season.  This boat is good and straight, no dents or dings, and no leaks.  I just want you to come get it!”

I really couldn’t believe my ears!  Fortunately my wife was in the car, because she could hear the conversation from my cell phone, or she wouldn’t have believed it either!

I told the caller I’d better check with my wife.  He laughed and said “seriously?!?”  I explained that I found myself in the doghouse when I bought the Vagabond, and this would be best for all concerned.  (Refer to blog post:  Feather Craft Vagabond Part One: From the Boathouse to the Doghouse…)

My wife and I talked it over, and I called to accept the vessel with great excitement.  I couldn’t believe someone I’d never met could be so kind.  I was…and am truly dumbfounded!

Now I have a new project to work on!  I had heard Alumacraft was a great boat, but I didn’t know what kind of boat this was.  I didn’t really care though.  If it was just a fishing boat, GREAT!  I could run my smaller antique outboards on it.  But the man had mentioned rigging still being on the boat…so this means it must be a runabout of some kind, though I knew of no such boats made by Alumacraft.

We set a date for Saturday October 17th, 2009 for my road trip to Kentucky to pick up the vessel.  In the meantime I called my buddy Larry to ask him to accompany me for the trip.  Larry is a former railroader.  He is used to staying awake for long trips, staring out the window of a cab, and generally he is entertaining to spend time with as he re-lives stories of railroading.  I knew we would have plenty to talk about.

On the date specified, I picked Larry up at 7am sharp, and down I-75 we headed for Kentucky.  I was tired, and excited.  Larry was in rare form that early in the morning…dropping the “F-bomb” every four or five words in each sentence.  We rolled along re-living our lives on the railroad, cussing, and laughing, telling stories…and being MEN.  He had my sides hurting at some points from laughing.  He’s a wonderful guy…but a real character!

We got to Maysville, Kentucky at least an hour before I expected, stopped for lunch in Flemingsburg, KY, called the “boat benefactor”, and set out down the road for the 20 minute trip his home.

He greeted us, and showed us several of his beautiful boats and motors.  Then he took me to my new vessel.  I was thrilled.  (Even Larry said later that he was surprised by the boats condition.)  There sitting on it’s vintage Balko Brother’s trailer was a wonderful little 14 foot  Alumacraft “FDR”.  It had the original steering wheel, pulleys, and splash well on the transom, the bow handle, and even a nice Perko Bow light.  “This boat has real potential” I thought.

Well, everything wasn’t perfect.  Despite new wiring, and lights, the trailer light plug did not match my truck.  Larry and I hitched it up and headed back to Flemingsburg to the NAPA store down the street from the McDonald’s where we’d had lunch.  After dragging some guy from behind the counter to assist me, I found an Emergency Trailer Lighting Repair Plug”.  6.99!  It simply was a snap together plug that fit my truck.  Larry and I cut the existing plug off the trailer, put the new plug on…and down the road we went.

Now for the boat.  I had done some research about Alumacraft boats in the week and a half from the call to “Greg and Larry’s Big Adventure”.  I found a website that had an old brochure with an Alumacraft runabout.

Oh!  What a great looking little boat!!

Oh! What a great looking little boat!!

I had found that Alumacraft had indeed made a model called and “FDR”.  This was the model-“F” styled  hull, with the “D”eep hull for more freeboard than standard fishing boats, and the “R” was a designation for runabout.  I had hoped this was the boat we would be getting, but again, anything was a gift.

Indeed this “FDR” was the very boat my “boating benefactor” was bestowing upon me.

Our new 1959 Alumacraft "FDR" at her new port of call in Toledo.  What a great lottle boat this will be!

Our new 1959 Alumacraft "FDR" at her new port of call in Toledo. What a great little boat this will be!

This boat has great potential.  It is very well constructed, and appears to be tight as a drum.  Nice lines and she looks to be a great project boat!  The hull very much resembles our Thompson, so I suspect she’ll ride well, and be a FAST ship!

This lil' darlin' was outfitted with a windshield at one time.  I'll start hitting the bone-yards looking for one that will fit.

This lil' darlin' was outfitted with a windshield at one time. I'll start hitting the bone-yards looking for one that will fit.

The Helmsman should be nice and comfy in this roomy cockpit! The wood on the transom will require replacement. This wood is original to the vessel.

The Helmsman should be nice and comfy in this roomy cockpit!

 

She is outfitted with the Patented "Aqueduct Transom".  This is a  splash-well that allows any water that comes over the transom to drain out rather than sit in the bilge.

She is outfitted with the Patented "Aqueduct Transom". This is a splash-well that allows any water that comes over the transom to drain out rather than sit in the bilge.Her capacity plate is still affixed to her transom.

  
 
There is no denying her heritage.  The letters "FDR" are stamped into the transom brace.

There is no denying her heritage. The letters "FDR" are stamped into the transom brace.

This was the 130th hull of this design model made for 1959.

This was the 130th hull of this design model made for 1959.

 

Her transom wood is original, but likely will be replaced.

Her transom wood is original, but likely will be replaced.

Although most work will not happen until warmer weather in the spring, I am looking forward to making this little vessel into a good representation of her original self.  New seats and upholstery for the front and back with be replicated.  New electrical will be strung.  Checks for any leaks and sealing of same will be a priority.  A windshield and additional deck hardware will be added.  Stay tuned for updates in the future.